Category: zhiju

Are you watching The Rise of the Phoenixes on …

Are you watching The Rise of the Phoenixes on Netflix? If so what’s your fav outfit so far?

Hi, thanks for the question!

I’m going to combine this question with another one I received that mysteriously disappeared (tumblr must’ve eaten it…), which asked to identify the clothing in “The Rise of Pheonixes”. Disclaimer that I haven’t watched the actual show, so everything here is going to be based off of photos. 

Similar to “The Empress of China”, the costumes in “The Rise of Phoenixes” are mostly based on Tang dynasty hanfu, with some creative liberties taken by the designers. Female lead Feng Zhiwei’s most commonly worn female outfit is the

chest-high ruqun, an outfit consisting of a top (ru) and skirt (qun), in which the skirt is tied above the breasts or at the bust point. It’s often accessorized with a large-sleeve outer robe called daxiushan.

Feng Zhiwei seems to be fond of wearing sheer ru & matching qun and daxiushan cut from the same cloth:

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Sometimes she’ll wear a short outer skirt called weichang over the qun (in the outfit below, the weichang and daxiushan are matching):

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This outfit comprises a non-sheer purple ru & dark blue polka-dotted weichang, as well as a light purple beizi (jacket):

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Ruqun is often accessorized with a long scarf called pibo, that’s worn wrapped around the arms & behind the back, as can be seen in the photo on the left:

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Another style of women’s hanfu on the show is heziqun, an outfit that consists of the hezi (strapless chest cover), skirt (qun), and top (ru). The hezi is worn over the top, and a thin cloth belt is typically used to hide the joint between the hezi and skirt. Heziqun is also accessorized with daxiushan and pibo:

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Feng Zhiwei also wears parallel-collar waist-high ruqun:

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…and what appears to be a zhiju (straight-hem robe): 

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The male costumes worn on the show are mainly based on Tang, Song, and Ming dynasty fashions, and mostly comprise a variety of round-collar clothing based on the hanfu styles of

yuanlingpao, yuanlingshan, and lanshan.
Feng Zhiwei’s most common male outfit is the yuanlingpao (round-collar robe):

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Here are some of the various round-collar outfits worn by the men on the show, including male lead Ning Yi:

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Here’s Ning Yi in mianfu, the ceremonial hanfu of the Emperor:

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As for the question of what my favorite outfit is – personally, from looking at the photos, I find the male costumes more captivating than the female ones. Still, if I had to choose a favorite outfit worn by Feng Zhiwei, it’d be this ruqun below (the outfit also appears in this gifset). I love the sheer ru and the earthy color scheme:

For favorite male outfits, I really like the dark brown yuanlingpao worn by Ning Yi in this shot. It goes really well with his long black hair and blue tuanshan (fan):

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Finally, of course we can’t forget assassin/bodyguard Gu Nanyi’s Wuxia-inspired outfits – they make him look especially stunning!:

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Hope this helps!

Photos via: 1, 2

ziseviolet:

ziseviolet:

Traditional Chinese Hanfu.

Traditional Chinese Hanfu.

Traditional Chinese Hanfu.

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ziseviolet: mickjeffrey: 这么多汉服种类里,你最爱的款式是什么? 直…

ziseviolet:

mickjeffrey:

这么多汉服种类里,你最爱的款式是什么?
直裾
Photo credit: Tmall.com

Traditional Chinese Hanfu – Type:

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mickjeffrey:这么多汉服种类里,你最爱的款式是什么? 直裾 Photo credi…

mickjeffrey:

这么多汉服种类里,你最爱的款式是什么?
直裾
Photo credit: Tmall.com

Traditional Chinese Hanfu – Type:

Zhiju/直裾 (straight-hem robe) and Quju/曲裾 (curved-hem robe) from 重回汉唐.